The Golden Rule

 

Gold is by far the most popular precious metal. Available in any number of karats, colors, and applications, it’s easy to get lost in all the details and buzzwords. We’ve tried to take some of the mystery out buying gold jewelry by providing the information below:

Karats

When buying gold jewelry, it is a must to look for karat markings. Karats determine the percentage of gold used in a given piece. This percentage affects the price and durability of your jewelry. For example, 18-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters pure gold, and jewelry of this fineness is marked ‘18k’ or ‘750′, the European designation meaning 75% gold.

24 karat gold is 100% pure gold and is much too soft to be used for jewelry.
22 karat gold is 91.7% gold and is also too soft for jewelry, but is still popular in some parts of the world.
18 karat gold is 75% gold and is quite popular for use in jewelry as it has adequate strength and high value.
14 karat gold is 58.3% gold and is the most widely used gold alloy, as it has optimum durability and value.
12 karat gold is 50% gold and contains too much base metal to be considered jewelry grade.
10 karat gold is 41.7% gold and is the lowest grade that can be legally marked as gold in the USA.

Gold Colors

Yellow gold is alloyed with silver and copper and is the most popular type of gold. Generally non-corrosive and resistant to compression, yellow gold is a practical choice for anyone buying good quality jewelry for the first time.

White gold is alloyed with a white metal such as palladium, nickel, or manganese. Lustrous and rarely subject to tarnish, it is an excellent choice for silver lovers who hate to polish their jewelry!

Rose gold is alloyed with copper and, sometimes, small amounts of silver. The proportions are about one part copper to three parts 24 karat gold. Rose gold is a great choice for those who love the look of copper and is fabulous with a fall wardrobe.

Gold Treatments

Gold Filled: Also known as ‘gold overlay’, ‘rolled gold’ or ‘rolled gold plate’, refers to a layer of gold bonded with heat and pressure to the surface of a support metal such as brass, then rolled or drawn to a prescribed thickness. If the gold layer is 12 karat or higher, the gold must be at least 1/20 of the total weight of the finished piece.

Gold Plate: A thin layer of 10 karat (or higher) gold that is deposited onto the surface of another metal such as copper or silver through the process of electroplating. Since silver atoms will eventually diffuse into the gold layer, causing fading and even tarnishing of the surface, a layer of barrier metal is used to counter this effect. Copper also migrates into gold, but does so more slowly. Therefore, a gold-plated silver article is usually a silver substrate with layers of copper, nickel, and gold deposited on top of it.

Gold Leaf: An ultra fine layer of nearly diaphanous gold that is applied and burnished by hand. Applying fewer layers will result in a duller gleam to the finish, while more layers will deepen the shine and color. Not durable enough for jewelry, it is almost never used as such, but is widely employed in signage, statues, and in other artistic media.